Enter at your own peril. You might not want to ever leave.
I have written quite a bit about the capital cities in my Nordic/Baltic neighbourhood here on Sophie’s World. You will find posts about Oslo, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Reykjavik, Stockholm, Riga, Vilnius, and even little Torshavn, on the blog. Oddly, though, despite it being my favourite capital in the region, I just realised there is woefully little about Tallinn.
Why, immediate rectifying is required. And since Tallinn is such a cool city, I will give you two rather comprehensive posts. Today, we will take a look at things to see and do in Medieval Tallinn. Later, we’ll take on contemporary Tallinn.
Ever since Estonia tore loose from the Soviet Union, I’ve been back and forth to Tallinn many, many times. You’ll notice the photos span almost three decades! I have been here for work, for pleasure, and often for work and pleasure. In fact, it’s hard not to have a pleasurable time in this quirky and innovative city. I’m only sorry I did not experience it during Soviet times. What an interesting comparison that would have been.
Travel inspiration
I like political thrillers, and remember reading Colin Forbes’ Cover Story. The spy novel is set in part in Tallinn, and begins rather dramatically with foreign correspondent Bob Newman, one of the protagonists, receiving a film showing his ex-wife, also a reporter, being run down by a car and killed. In the background of that brutal scene, looms the towers of Toompea.
I find Forbes’ characters a bit vague, and I cannot remember the plot of this novel from his many others. But his descriptions of place could put any Lonely Planet writer to shame. His books have had me visit an otherwise uninsipiring little park behind the Hilton in Brussels, and sit in the coffee shop in the Beau-Rivage on the shores of Lake Geneva, pondering if that man walking past is a spy. That one over there. In the charcoal single-breasted Armani. (What do you mean, stereotyping?) They have taken me to weird little corners in London, and even to King’s Lynn, a town in Norfolk I didn’t even know existed.
Today, 20-odd years after reading Cover Story, I still remember his descriptions of mysterious, foreboding Tallinn of the 1980s. So vivid were they, I couldn’t wait to see it myself.
When Newman travels to Tallinn to avenge his wife’s murder, he crosses from Helsinki on the M/S Georg Ots – and I was keen to take that same boat journey, seeing the silhouette of Soviet Tallinn approaching.
Years later, I was travelling by ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn with my then 12-year-old. Turned out the ferry was the M/S Georg Ots – on one of its final crossings. What a geeky thrill! And whilst Tallinn was no longer Soviet – or foreboding – it did look delightfully mysterious. Still does!
On board the M/S Georg Ots
The M/S Georg Ots is no longer in operation, but arriving by sea is still an awesome way to approach Tallinn; that little 2-hour hop from Helsinki on a lovely, sunny day is hard to beat. On a bleak February day, too.
Things to see and do in Medieval Tallinn
Tallinn is so small and compact, you could see a whole lot of it in just one day, if you set your mind to it. However, you won’t be surprised that I recommend spending at least one night. Need to breathe in the night-time atmosphere, y’all.
And so, without further rambling, here are 11 terrific things to see and do in Old Tallinn. And a bonus.
1. Viru Gate
Whether you come walking up from the harbour, or get out of the taxi (about 10€) or the tram (about 3€) from the airport, your first view of Old Tallinn will probably be Viru Gate, the old town entrance. And it is a good place to start. I love how this cool gate welcomes you into the old town.
From now on, it is mostly pedestrian. Except for the occasional group of tourists on Segways, that is. They are everywhere, aren’t they. And, whilst I think they do get in people’s way, they are also kinda fun to ride. So I’ll allow it without further grumble.
Continue past the gate and up the gently sloping Viru tänav (Viru street), past shops and cafes, around the corner, and you’ll find yourself on…
2. Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square)
During the last few decades, I’ve spent more hours than I can count on this charming square, usually with a coffee, sometimes in front of a laptop, sometimes just watching life happening; sometimes with the kids, sometimes without.
Raekoja Plats has been a bustling market square since the days of the Hanseatic League. (Readers of Sophie’s World will remember many references to this guild of 14th – 15th century roaming traders.) There is a lively Christmas market here, as well. Not an ancient one, like you’ll find in Germany and Central Europe; such frivolities were not allowed in Soviet times. But as soon as that iron curtain was cast aside, Tallinn joined that oh-so-European tradition. I’ve found lots of hand-knitted sweaters and other lovely items here over the years. This year (2023), Tallinn’s Christmas market is on from 3 December.
3. Tallinna Raekoda (Town Hall)
Pride of Raekoja Plats is the Gothic Tallinna Raekoda. It was completed in 1404, making it Northern Europe’s oldest town hall. I think it may very well be one of the most beautiful building in all the Baltics.
From the impressive tower, the bell rings every hour. Climb the 115 spiral steps to the bell balcony – increasingly steeper and higher the further up you go – for spectacular views of the Estonian capital.
4. Tallinna Raeapteek
My favourite building on the square, however, is a pharmacy that has been in business here, in this very same building, since the early 1400s. You can join a guided tour of the pharmacy and adjacent museum, and workshops here are popular amongst local school children.
5. Toompea Fortress
And so we have arrived at Bob Newman’s foreboding castle on a hill. This is Pikk Hermann in the light of day. Tall Herman is the most important of the three remaining defense towers of Toompea Fortress, all about power through the ages. The Estonian flag flies on top of the tower as a powerful symbol of Estonian independence.
6. Toompea Castle
Spot a pink wall next to Pikk Hermann? Toompea Castle is built on the ruins of the medieval fortress. One of four parts of the castle, this baroque, pink building is home of Riigikogu, the Estonian parliament. You can take a tour (free, but you must pre-register), and/or observe Riigikogu in session.
Pretty in pink
7. Pika jala väravatorn
The Pikk Jalg Gate (Long Leg Gate) connects the upper and lower town. Or at least, today it does. In the old days, i.e. the 15th century, they didn’t get along, and so a wall was built at the intersection of Pikk Jalg, Nunne street and Rataskaevu street, to keep the uppers and lowers apart; the wall of mistrust. The gate closed at 21.00 every night.
Today, you will find quirky shops and apartments here.
8. Town Wall
Pretty sturdy defence wall this, one of the strongest in Northern Europe, actually. They knew what they were doing, those builders of the 13th century. Nearly 2 km of wall remains, and you can climb up for a walk between some of the towers, and for fab views of old town Tallinn.
9. Kiek in de Kök and Neitsitorni (Maiden’s Tower)
More defensive towers to climb, wonderful vistas to be had and medieval fantasy to engage in at the Maiden’s Tower. 14th century Neitsitorni has been rebuilt many times and has been used as a residence some of the time. What a great place to live wouldn’t that be! Today, it is part of the Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum.
10. Katariina Käik (Saint Catherine’s Passage)
Between Vene and Müürivahe streets is a 700-year-old narrow passage known as Katariina Käik – Saint Catherine’s Passage, lined with 16th century houses. Today, craft workshops dominate: there’s glass blowers, pottery makers, milliners. The passage is enchanting in summer and winter. Yet another spot that sparks the imagination.
11. Master’s Courtyard
I stumbled upon this little courtyard a few years ago, and instantly liked it. The cafes, the colours, the cosiness … Handmade jewellery and ceramics and lots of other gorgeous gifts are for sale – and then there is the Chocolaterie cafe!
Bonus
12. The Devil’s Wedding and the Cat’s Well
No surprise that a city so ancient is full of lore. This photo alone represents two legends.
We are at Rataskaevu Street no 16, just around the corner from the Pikk Jalg Gate. See that top left window there? The one that looks painted on? (It is.) Rumour has it, the devil celebrated his wedding here.
As if that is not enough, just outside, across the cobbled street, is the Cat’s Well. Don’t be surprised if you hear meows or even growls from the well at night. More about the two mysterious legends in this post.
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Ah, Medieval Tallinn, all so deliciously fairytale spooky.
Next time, I’ll talk about new Tallinn – or newer, at least. Watch this space!
Historic Centre (Old Town) of Tallinn is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites around the world.
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