Aitutaki: Here’s how to reach the world’s most beautiful island

“I just feel like this might be my last time doing this, and it’s special.”

Everyone who heard my Nana was in tears. At 87, Shirley Whimp is living her dream of finally returning to her favourite place in the world, and it’s a precious day I’ll never forget.

This story starts 25 years earlier in my grandparent’s home in Whangārei, where all of us grandchildren would gather around to listen to stories.

My Poppa, Ces Whimp, was a masterful storyteller. He famously told the tale of an ogre living on a hill across the valley. For years, we believed it was real – simply because he’d describe every detail right down to the pimple on its nose. I was so convinced that I searched “ogre” in the White Pages, wanting to phone him.

But the best stories were always about Nana and Poppa’s travel. We’d sit around the fire and hear about exotic places like the Rocky Mountains, an awe-inspiring canvas of jagged peaks and sapphire lakes on the other side of the world.

Poppa would also describe their favourite place in the world: a tropical slice of paradise that you could only reach by plane. My grandfather wasn’t one for Donald Trump, but whenever he described Aitutaki, he adopted almost Trumpian gusto. It had the “bluest” lagoon in the world, with the “sweetest” bananas and the “best” people.

I like to think Poppa is looking down on Aitutaki now. Sadly, he left us – including his wife of more than 60 years – in 2021. I would give anything to listen to one of his travel stories again; mine just don’t do it justice.

There’s one thing I’ve always wanted to do: take Nana back to their favourite place in the world. And recently, I spotted my chance.

After a life-changing hip replacement earlier this year, Nana was once again up for travelling, and we booked a family trip to Rarotonga for her 87th birthday.

Air Rarotonga offers a day trip up to Aitutaki – where you can see the best bits in one day – and we surprised her with it.

The trip begins with a 40-minute early morning flight up to Aitutaki. The island gained worldwide attention as part of the Coral Route in the 1950s, which was flown by Solent flying boats. Back then, this was more than just a flight – it was a journey of romance that linked the gems of the South Pacific. But there was always one that got the most attention and attracted celebrities from all over the world: Aitutaki.

I see Nana’s eyes sparkle as the island’s lagoon comes into view, as if rekindling a lifetime of travel memories. On the ground, a member of the tourism board gives us a big hug – a welcome bestowed on anyone who wants it.

The island has around 1800 people, and the next person we meet is probably one of its biggest characters: Ali Maao. He’s giant, loud and raucously funny – his personality matches the beauty of the island. Just like Poppa said – the “best” people.

We started with a quick open-bus tour of the island, where Ali was already giving “Nan” (as he called Nana) special treatment. The bus stopped, and Ali jumped out and grabbed a fresh bunch of bananas, with Nan getting the first pick. Once again, Poppa was right – the “sweetest” I’ve ever eaten.

We then boarded The Vaka Cruise, which is a modern take on the traditional waka that were used by early explorers. It’s large, with room for around 40, with lots of tables and shade – and is our home for the next six hours. Soon after leaving, Ali asks our group if anyone is celebrating a birthday, and Nana’s hand slowly raises.

What followed was a rousing chorus of Happy Birthday – in English and Cook Islands Māori – which left Nana in tears. From that moment on, she became the star of the show. A few minutes later, a fellow Kiwi tourist came over to buy Nana a drink for her big day. She usually has a tiny bit of wine mixed with lemonade, but a glass of the real (undiluted) stuff arrived. She was on cloud wine.

Our first stop was the island where the flying boats used to dock, and most of the group jumped off for a quick swim in the perfectly blue waters. We then motored to a snorkel spot, with giant clams and lots of fish, while a sumptuous buffet was cooked. Ali insisted “Nan” be given first honours to the food – it was easily some of the best I’ve tried.

Our final stop was One Foot Island, famous for its crystal-clear waters and pristine white-sand beaches. Nana – now emboldened with two lemonade-free wines – decided she was Michael Phelps and started freestyle swimming into the deep. Some of the other guests looked on with shock – I couldn’t keep up with her.

Afterwards, we rested in the warm shallow waters as the palm trees rustled, and I asked Nana if this was as good as she remembered: “I think I like it better,” she said with a soft smile. “I just feel like this might be my last time doing this, and it’s special.”

A couple of us who heard that were in tears.

After an hour’s swim, we boarded The Vaka for a leisurely cruise back to catch our plane. Ali and his crew – complete with ukulele – sang us back under the softening sun. At this point, everyone onboard knew this was one of those dream days that don’t come along too often – and the mood reflected that.

Poppa would be proud that they both got back to Aitutaki one final time. We know he was with us.

Fact file:

Air NZ and Jetstar both have direct flights from Auckland to Rarotonga. From there, Air Rarotonga offers direct flights to Aitutaki, or you can visit on Air Rarotonga’s Aitutaki Day Tour. The trip is $599 per adult, including return flights, airport transfers to and from your resort, bus tour, a day cruising, a buffet lunch and snorkel gear. See: airraro.com

Carbon footprint: Flying generates carbon emissions. To reduce your impact, consider other ways of travelling, amalgamate your trips, and when you need to fly, consider offsetting emissions.

Brook and Shirley’s trip to Aitutaki was supported by Air Rarotonga. The family paid their own way to the Cook Islands.